Once turning off … The extra lead carries a much lower current and the result of this setup is that the output-voltage of the regulator-rectifier will be higher, the same DC-voltage as the voltage-drop in the high current leads plus 14.4 Vdc. These leads carry a high current and any bad connection here will result in a lower voltage over the battery-terminals. My bike would not crank over. It was dropped and put back together. Not sure what my issues is. 3. With a little TLC, you can extend the life of your motorcycle battery. This NEEDS to be correctly charged and tested before you start and troubleshooting. 2. Its an 08 gsxr 600 with a brand new battery. Motorcycle Battery maintenance tips. When starting the bike, the voltage drops to 8V. I would have the battery load tested before spending money hanging random parts. Now the guages dont come on, voltage is stable around 12.4 until you turn the key on then it drops to 5ish and slowly rises until 6.4 and tops off. A low or failing battery can cause crazy readings during your testing. It can even show the proper voltage (12.6 or more) and not be able to crank an engine when a load is applied. Check fuses to begin with. When I turned on the ignition, the voltage drops to 12 – 12.1 volts. It only takes a tiny bit of maintenance once a month or so to keep it running well. If you are not getting these numbers you might have a faulty voltage regulator. Anything with EFI is going to need a good battery to run properly. It measured the same the next day at 12.5 volts. Note: On Cycle Electric Inc. low volt models normal operating voltage … At idle, your bike will not produce enough voltage to recharge a battery, so even running the bike for a long time will not charge it reliably. By the time voltage drops to 12.7, you are drawing amperage out of the battery, so any increase in amperage output after the voltage drops to 13.8 will be considered unusable. The full range of the battery is from just over 14 volts (when being charged by the bike running at high RPMs) down to 10.5 volts (under heavy load, for example, when the lights are on and the bike is being started). Even a brand new battery can fail if it drops below a certain point. Once the motorcycle is on, the stator takes over and is what helps the bike run while also recharging the voltage the battery had to use to get the motorcycle started. Use a battery tender – Ideally, you want to keep your motorcycle battery at 100% all the time. With the bike running, the voltage continues to drop to less than 6V. After sitting for a short time, the battery is back up to 12V. Maybe on an older bike. You must ride it to produce a load on the electrical system, or at least run the engine at a cruising RPM, for quite some time to produce the 13.5-14.5 volts required to charge the battery back up. If voltage drops below 13.8 the battery will not fully charge. - It is a 2000 SV with ~24k miles and nearly brand new battery. - When battery is all hooked up and the ignition is in the OFF position the system voltage reads ~13v (I am measuring this at the battery … To be clear, the battery resting voltage is 12.1V. Unless you have additional electrical ad-ons, that’s basically all the battery does. The next day, I turned on my electric grips which upon turning on my ignition, drop the voltage to 11.8. If a battery reads 12 volts at rest, it is almost fully depleted. It did crank when I first put it together, now, put a new tank and pump on it. - Battery is fully charged and I have confirmed this with volt meter reading ~13v. The battery’s main role on a motorcycle is to get it started. Battery: This is a huge part of your charging system. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. 4. 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